The Story Behind the Recipe
The first time I tried kikurage, their texture was unlike the mushrooms I was used to. I especially enjoy them on tonkotsu, where they contrast with the creamy broth. My preparation is simple, with quantities adjusted by tasting. I want an aromatic, sweet and salty result, with the soy sauce leading. A handful of dried mushrooms makes enough topping for several bowls.
Serve them in Simple Shio Tonkotsu Ramen with Chashu and Ajitama. Chiyu is one option for the aromatic oil.
The Technique
- Rehydrate according to the packet and drain thoroughly.
- Cook with the seasonings until the liquid is absorbed.
- Taste before adding more soy sauce.
Topping for several bowls
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Dried kikurage / wood ear mushrooms: 1 handful.
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Aromatic oil or sesame oil: 2 tbsp.
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Soy sauce: 2 tbsp.
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Mirin: 1 tbsp.
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Water: for rehydrating.
Method
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Rehydrate the mushrooms in water according to the packet. If separate boiling is required, do that before the final cooking with the seasonings.
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Rinse, remove any tough parts and drain thoroughly. Cut into smaller pieces or strips if needed.
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Place the oil, mushrooms, soy sauce and mirin in a small saucepan or frying pan.
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Cook over medium heat, stirring, until the liquid is absorbed and the mushrooms look glossy.
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Taste and adjust with small amounts of soy sauce or mirin. Use as a topping, or cool rapidly and refrigerate.
Tips and Secrets
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Dried mushrooms expand considerably. The handful is a starting quantity for a batch, not a single bowl.
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Drain before adding the seasonings. Excess water dilutes the sauce and weakens its flavour.
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Choose sesame oil for a plant-based version. This makes the topping suitable for a plant-based bowl too.
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